Obese Squirrel Ornament - Free Pattern

I’m not a big fan of squirrels. A family of them once moved into the roof of the cottage and made my nights pretty miserable with the racket from all their… squirrel business. The only thing worse was when the raccoon moved in the following winter and then gave birth to a litter above my bedroom. How did I end up with so much wildlife as “upstairs” neighbors? I’ll just say my landlord wasn’t very proactive about anything, including repairing major access points in the roof. And as someone who can confidently state there is no such thing as a truly “squirrel-proof” bird-feeder, they still get on my nerves.

There is one variety of squirrel I very much enjoy and look forward to this time of year: the morbidly obese type. 

So I thought, what better way to celebrate fall and stave off seasonal affective disorder than to create a morbidly obese squirrel ornament pattern using an ordinary pingpong ball.

The pattern is something of a variation and a little bit of an improvement—I think—on the Fat Cat Bauble pattern. I think the pingpong ball is somewhat easier to work with than the plastic bauble.

Pingpong balls are also easier to find year-round. You probably won’t even need to go to a sporting goods store; I got mine in the grocery store—same aisle as the Solo cups.

You could still fit this pattern to plastic craft bauble. I’ll provide some notes on that at the end of the body portion below. You can also skip the bell/acorn part and just leave the paws free or attach all manner of other objects: little knit walnuts, tiny jars of peanut butter, chunks of insulation from my old roof.  

So here’s what you’ll need to make your own obese squirrel bauble ornament:

Yarn and Needles:
I used Paton’s Kroy Socks yarn for the majority of the squirrel. The color is Flax. A few dozen yards of any sock weight/fine yarn should do. The belly is knit in white Caron Simply Soft Light. Sadly, it’s been discontinued, but any sock weight yarn in an appropriate belly color should do. The acorn cap over the bell is made with Woollike from Loops & Threads, a super fine yarn that’s a Micheal’s exclusive. The color is chocolate. A small amount of brown crochet thread has been used to embroider the nose.  

You’ll need 4 DPNs (double pointed needles) - size US 1 (2.22mm).

Gauge: 10 sts for 14 rows in stockinette = 1 inch (2.54 cm)
Unlike most of my patterns, gauge matters a bit for this one-- mostly because you’ll want to make sure the pingpong ball is properly covered and all the other parts are in proportion.

Additional Supplies:
A pingpong ball for the body, a small amount of stuffing or yarn scraps, safety eyes (7.5mm for the size shown in the photos), a 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) jingle bell, cord or ribbon to suspend the ornament, a tapestry needle for assembly, and straight pins--if needed--to assist with positioning during assembly.

Techniques And Abbreviations:
Knit-in-the-Round
Knit Straight
Cast On (CO)
Bind Off (BO)
Knit (K)
Purl (P)
Make One (M1)
Knit Front and Back (Kfb)
Knit Two Together (K2tog)
Slip slip knit (ssk)
Slip (Sl)
Pass slipped stitch over (psso)
Draw-Through
Round (Rnd)
Short Row (Srt Row)
Wrap & Turn (W&T)
Stitch/es (st/s)

Total stitches are indicated within ( ) after increase and decrease rounds. Stitches to be repeated are indicated within [ ] followed by the number of repeats.

The pingpong ball cover is knit in one piece. The head, tail, and limbs are knit separately and attached. The acorn cap is knit separately, attached to the bell, and stitched between the squirrel’s paws.

Body - Covering the Pingpong Ball
CO 6 sts, distribute evenly on 3 DPNs (2 sts per needle to start) and knit the following rnds:

Rnd 1. [K1, M1, K1] 3 times (9 sts)
Rnd 2. [Kfb, K1, Kfb] 3 times (15 sts)
Rnd 3. [Kfb, K3, Kfb] 3 times (21 sts)
Rnd 4. [Kfb, K5, Kfb] 3 times (27 sts)

Continue in this manner—inc on the first and last st of each DPN—until there are 17 sts on each needle (51 sts total).

Knit 8 rnds even before beginning decrease rnds below. 

To decrease:

Dec Rnd 1. [K2tog, K13, Ssk] 3 times (45 sts)
Dec Rnd 2. [K2tog, K11, Ssk] 3 times (39 sts)
Dec Rnd 3. [K2tog, K9, Ssk] 3 times (33 sts)

Continue in this manner, checking to ensure that the pingpong ball can be easily slipped inside. Once there is resistance, leave the pingpong ball within and knit until there are 3 sts on each needle (9 sts total). You’ll need to stretch yarn as you go to make it easier to knit while the pingpong ball is inside. 

To close up the yarn:

Sl 1, ssk, psso. 1 st now remains on each DPN (3 sts total). 

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Notes on adapting this pattern to a plastic bauble:

If you are knitting this to cover a plastic bauble, you’ll need to adapt the above steps to fit the circumference of the bauble.  You may want to increase the yarn weight and DPN size. It will probably also be necessary to work more increase rnds.  Once you’ve increased enough to fit the circumference of the bauble, knit enough even rnds to easily pull the cover to the upper third of the bauble’s height, then begin decreasing.

This may require some trial and error.  Too few sts and rnds will make the yarn appear stretched and reveal large gaps.  Too many will cause bunching where each DPN meets the next.  There should be just enough give to allow the bauble to be easily slipped into the yarn after the first several decrease rnds are worked.  Stop decreasing when the cover can be easily pulled up to the top opening/spring cap.  Cut the yarn and draw through remaining stitches, securing the cover in place so it fits around the neck of the opening. You can then use the tail to close any gaps from where the DPNs met.

Check out the Fat Cat Bauble pattern to see how this looks. 

Head and Belly
CO 6 sts on 3 DPNs and knit the following rnds: 

Rnd 1. [K1, Kfb] 3 times (9 sts)
Rnd 2. K all sts
Rnd 3. [K1, Kfb, K1] 3 times (12 sts)
Rnd 4. [K1, Kfb] twice, K4, [Kfb, K1] twice (16 sts)
Rnd 5. K all sts
Rnd 6. [K2, Kfb] twice, K4, [Kfb, K2] twice (20 sts)

The following short rows will round the back of the squirrel's head. 

Srt Row 1. K15, W&T
Srt Row 2. P10, W&T
Srt Row 3. K9, W&T
Srt Row 4. P8, W&T
Srt Row 5. K9, W&T - Now working wrapped stitches.
Srt Row 6. P10, W&T
Srt Row 7. K11, W&T
Srt Row 8. P12, W&T
Srt Row 9. K17 to end

Resume knitting in the round.

Rnd 1. K all sts
Rnd 2. K2, K2tog, K12, ssk, K2 (18 sts)
Rnd 3. K2, BO 14 sts, K2 (4 sts)

Put remaining 4 sts on one needle to knit belly.

Break body yarn, leaving enough of a tail to assist with assembly later, and attach white/belly yarn and knit the following rows.

Row 1. [Kfb] 4 times (8 sts)
Row 2. P all sts
Row 3. Kfb, K6, Kfb (10 sts)
Row 4. P all sts
Row 5. Kfb, K8, Kfb (12 sts)
Row 6. P all sts
Row 7. Kfb, K10, Kfb (14 sts)
Row 8. P all sts
Row 9. Kfb, K12, Kfb (16 sts)
Row 10. P all sts
Row 11.  K2tog, K12, ssk (14 sts)
Row 12. P all sts
Row 13. K2tog, K10, ssk (12 sts)
Row 14. P all sts
Row 15. K2tog, K8, ssk (10 sts)
Row 16. P all sts
Row 17. K2tog, K6, ssk (8 sts)
Row 18. P all sts
Row 19. K2tog, K4, ssk (6 sts)
Row 20. P all sts
Row 21. K2tog, K2, ssk (4 sts)


BO, leaving a long tail.

Ears
Make two
CO 4, leaving a long tail, and knit the following rows:

Row 1. K1, [Kfb] twice, K1 (6 sts)
Row 2. P2, P2tog, P2 (5 sts)
Row 3. K1, Sl 1, Ktog, psso, K1 (3 sts)
Row 4. Sl 1, P2tog, psso.

Draw through to close.

Front Paws
Make two
CO 6, leaving a long tail, and knit the following rows:

Row 1. K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1 (8 sts) 
Row 2. P all sts
Row 3. K1, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K1 (10 sts)
Row 4. P all, CO 2 sts. (12 sts)
Row 5. K all sts 

Distribute all sts on 3 DPNs to knit the following rnds:

Rnds 1- 4. K all sts
Rnd 5. [K1, K2tog, K1] 3 times (9 sts)
Rnds 6-8. K all sts
Rnd 9. [Sl 1, K2tog, psso] 3 times (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Lightly stuff the lower portion of the paw.

Back Feet
Make two
CO 6, leaving a long tail, and knit the following rows:

Row 1. K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1 (8 sts) 
Row 2. P all sts
Row 3. K1, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K1 (10 sts)
Row 4. P all, Co 2 sts. (12 sts)
Row 5. K all sts

Distribute all sts on 3 DPNs to knit the following rnds:

Rnds 1-3. K all sts
Rnd 4. [K1, K2tog, K1] 3 times (9 sts)
Rnd 5. [Sl 1, K2tog, psso] 3 times (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Lightly stuff the lower portion of the foot.

Tail
CO 9, leaving a long tail, and knit the following rnds:

Rnds 1-2. K all sts
Rnd 3. [Kfb, K1, Kfb] 3 times (15 sts)
Rnds 4-7. K all sts
Rnd 8. K5, Kfb, K3, Kfb, K5 (17 sts)

Base of tail short rows: 

Srt Row 1. K13, W&T
Srt Row 2. P11, W&T
Srt Row 3. K10, W&T
Srt Row 4. P9, W&T
Srt Row 5. K8, W&T
Srt Row 6. P7, W&T
Srt Row 7. K8, W&T - Now working wrapped sts.
Srt Row 8. P9, W&T
Srt Row 9. K10, W&T
Srt Row 10. P11 W&T
Srt Row 11. K to end

Resume knitting rnds.

K 10 rnds even.

Top of tail short rows

Srt Row 1. K5, W&T
Srt Row 2. P10 (Knitting past start of the rnd.) W&T
Srt Row 3. K9, W&T
Srt Row 4. P8, W&T
Srt Row 5. K7, W&T
Srt Row 6. P6, W&T
Srt Row 7. K3, to end

Resume knitting in the round, picking up wraps as you come to them: 

Rnds 1-3. K all sts
Rnd 4. K4, [K2tog] twice, K1, [ssk] twice, K4 (13 sts)
Rnd 5. K4, K2tog, K1, ssk, K4 (11 sts)
Rnd 6. K1, K2tog, K5, ssk, K1 (9 sts)

Stuff the tail so it is firm but flexible.

Rnd 7. [S1, K2tog, psso] 3 times (3 sts)  

Draw through to close.

Acorn Cap
CO 9 on DPNs and knit in the following rnds:

Rnds 1-2. K all sts
Rnd 3. [Kfb, K1, Kfb] 3 times (15 sts)
Rnd 4. Kfb, K3, Kfb] 3 times (21 sts)
Rnd 5. [Kfb, K5, Kfb] 3 times (27 sts)
Rnd 6. [Kfb, K7, Kfb] 3 times (33 sts)
Rnd 7. P all sts

BO, leaving a long tail.

To adapt the acorn cap to a bell that is larger or smaller, knit more or fewer increase rnds. You'll want to stop increasing when the cap just reaches the widest point at the top of the bell, then P one or more even rnds so it curls over the bell's edge.

Assembly:

Stitch up any gaps in the body left from where the DPNs met.

Position and place the safety eyes on the head. Attach the ears, each one just above each eye, and embroider a nose. Lightly stuff the head with yarn scraps or stuffing.

Use the long tails from the CO portion of these pieces to assist in the following assembly. 

Attach the head to the body.

Sew by slipping the stitches between the pingpong ball and the knitted cover. Use straight pins to assist with the positioning. I like to start with one side, working around the back toward the front.

Sew all the way around the neck using the body yarn. Switch to white yarn to attach the belly, spreading it flat across the front and stitching around the edges.

Next, attach the CO portion of tail on the opposite end of the body, just a small distance away from the center. You’ll want the tip of the tail to come near or slightly higher than the height of the head.

Attach the front paws, but take care lining them up so the ends almost touch in front of the belly.

Start by sewing the CO edge right where the edge of the belly meets the body. Sew all the way around.

Repeat that process for the back feet, aligning the CO end with the edge of the belly.

Place the acorn cap over the bell. Secure it in place by weaving the BO tail in between the four splits in the sides and the opening at the top of the bell.

Once the cap is thoroughly fixed in place, use a few stitches to attach it to the squirrel’s front paws.    

Use a length of cord or ribbon to create a loop to suspend the squirrel from a hook or branch.

This squirrel is dedicated to Jen because of our shared appreciation of incredibly fat squirrels. Thank you, Jen, and thank you for also coming up with the name Rosemarsh-- even if you were just making fun of me.

Happy knitting as always, friends. Maybe there will be more ornament updates before the year is out--perhaps a redux on an old pattern or two. We'll see how yet another dark, chilly knitting season shakes up.

Tiny VooDoo Doll - Free Pattern

So I’m keeping it simple this year with my Halloween pattern. 

Not a lot of legs on this one; the whole job is done in three pieces and a lack of precision with embroidery is favorable.  Don’t worry, I’m not through with spiders but I don’t want to fall into too much of a pattern-pattern.

So why not knit your very own pocket sized voodoo doll?

Or voo-dude as Puffits and I have been calling it.

I know there are a lot of patterns out there for making them—if you even need a pattern, as they’re essentially a few shapes put together to create a human form—but I wanted mine to have a specific look and structure. 

Mostly I wanted one that could sit up on its own, on a desk, the dashboard of a car, or beside you on a park bench—should you see anyone littering…

I feel like I need a disclaimer.

I advise only using your voodoo doll for good… 

That’s somewhat vague and subjective statement. 

Let’s just say, your pins: your consequences. 

Okay then, let’s get on to what you need.

Yarn and Needles:

The dolls in the photos are made with Cotton Fair from Premier Yarns, which is a 2/fine weight. You shouldn’t need more than maybe a couple dozen yards, if that.   

You’ll need four double pointed needles (DPNs) as most of the pattern is knit in the round. I used U.S. size 2 (2.75 mm)

This combo yields a doll that is roughly 2.5 inches from head to butt and 1.5 inches from butt to feet.  

Additional Supplies: 

Stuffing: Polyfill can be used but it’s not ideal in this case, particularly if you’re going to be using your doll as a pincushion. You’ll want something a little sturdier. I’ve gotten good results with wool roving/spinning fiber. You can use yarn scraps, bits of fabric, or even create a small fabric pouch with sand or sawdust. As I’ve recently learned, that’s how pin cushions were used back in the day. 

Stitch holder: To hold stitches when the legs are divided.

Embroidery floss or thin crochet thread: I recommend a contrasting color. You may also want to give your doll button or bead eyes but that’s option. Personally I prefer the look of a couple Xs.

Tapestry needle: To assemble and embroider. 

Techniques And Abbreviations

Knit-in-the-Round

Knit Straight

Cast On (CO)

Knit (K)

Purl (P)

Knit Front and Back (Kfb)

Knit Two Together (K2tog)

Slip slip knit (Ssk)

Sl (Slip)

Psso (Pass slipped stitch over)

Draw-Through

Round (Rnd)

Short Row (Srt Row)

Wrap & Turn (W&T)

Stitch/es (st/s)

Total stitches are indicated within ( ) after increase and decrease rounds. Stitches to be repeated are indicated within [ ] and { }.

The body and the legs are knit in one piece. The arms are knit separately and attached.

Body 

Starting at the top of the head, CO 6 sts and join on DPNs to knit the following rounds:

Rnd 1: [K1, Kfb] 3 times. (9 sts)

Rnd 2: [K1, Kfb, K1] 3 times. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [K1, {Kfb} twice, K1] 3 times. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1] 3 times. (24 sts)

Rnds 5-7: K all sts.

Rnd 8: [K1, K2tog, K2, Ssk, K1] 3 times. (18 sts)

Rnd 9: K all sts.

Rnd 10: [K1, K2tog, Ssk, K1] 3 times. (12 sts)

Rnd 11: K all sts.

Rnd 12: K1, [Kfb] twice, K6, [Kfb] twice, K1. (16 sts)

Rnd 13: K all sts.

Rnd 14: K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K6, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1. (20 sts)

Rnd 15: K all sts.

Rnd 16: K1, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K6, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K1. (24 sts)

Rnds 17-22: K all sts.

You can stuff the head and upper body at this point but you’ll also have the opportunity to do so a little later.

The following short rounds will turn the body so the doll sits upright. If you’d like your doll to lay flat or appear as though it’s standing upright, skip this part and move on to the legs.

Short Rows

Srt Row 1: K6, W&T

Srt Row 2: P12, W&T (Knitting past the beginning of the round.)

Srt Row 3: K11 W&T

Srt Row 4: P10 W&T

Srt Row 5: K9 W&T

Srt Row 6: P8 W&T

Srt Row 7: K9 W&T (Work the wrap as you come to them.)

Srt Row 8: P10 W&T

Srt Row 9: K11 W&T

Srt Row 10: P12 W&T

Srt Row 11: K6 returning to the beginning of the round.

Knit one more full round before dividing for the legs. 

Legs

You’ll now want to stuff the majority of the body. Depending on your stuffing material, it will be easier to shape and manipulate the doll if the stuffing is in smaller pieces. If you’re using polyfill or roving, pull it apart into smaller portions. If you’re using yarn or fabric scraps, make sure they’re in short and dense/layered portions.

Place the first 12 sts on a holder. Move the remaining 12 sts onto DPNs to knit in the round and create the right leg. 

Try to keep the start and end of the round together so there isn’t a large gap between the first and last stitch. 

Rnds 1-7: K all sts.

Rnd 8: [K1, K2tog, K1] 3 times. (9 sts)

Rnd 9: [Sl 1 st, K2tog, Psso] 3 times (3 sts)

Draw through to close. Weave in end.

Lightly stuff the right leg before moving onto the left. Make sure the body is as stuffed as you like it at this point; it will be much harder to access the interior of your doll once the left leg is knit.   

Shift the 12 sts from the holder onto DPNs. Reattach the yarn at the belly, just behind the last st. If you leave a long tail, it can be used to close up any gap between the leg divide.  

Again, try to keep the start and end of the round tightly together as the first round is completed to minimize the gap between the legs.

Repeat the leg rounds above. Remember to lightly stuff the interior of the leg before the decrease and draw through after completing Rnd 9. 

Arms

The arms start with straight rows and are joined in the round.

CO 4 and knit straight:

Row 1: K1, [Kfb] twice, K1. (6 sts)

Row 2: P all sts, CO 3.  (9 sts)

Row 3: K all sts.

Join with DPNs and knit 7 rnds.

To close: [Sl 1 st, K2tog, Psso] 3 times. (3 sts)

Draw through to close. Weave in end. I like to draw this end up through the interior of the arm and use it as stuffing.

Repeat the above to make a second arm.

Assembly

Attach the arms to the sides of the body, connecting the cast on ends. 

Close up any gap left behind by the leg divide. 

Once assembled, create any decorative seams and stitches and/or accents like a heart.

Embroider a mouth and eyes or use buttons.

Have fun with this part since this is what will define the expression and state of your doll. If you’re crap at embroidery, as I am, this can work in your favor, although there’s nothing wrong with a voodude with very precise yet spooky stitching.  

Of course this is also your opportunity to make it look like someone specific—if you choose—but that’s entirely between you and your victim. Before you go jabbin’ don’t forget all returns three-fold! 

Happy Halloween, friends. 

Stay safe, be kind, knit happy, oh, and hand out the full-size candy bars. 

Seriously, there’s no better way to reap some trick-or-treating joy as an adult than being the house that hands out the full size candy bars. You can freeze what’s left over and make Thanksgiving brownies or cookies but there are never any leftovers once the word gets out. 

Jumping Spider - Free Pattern

Okay, so nearly two years since I’ve updated but at least I’ve given you a full five days before Halloween to knit this jumping spider. 

And you might need all five of them; this spider is not a light project. 

As with the smaller Spooky Sparkly Spider pattern, all the pieces are fairly easy to knit, but there are a lot of them and then there’s the task of getting them all together.

If you’re up for something finicky that will give you a lot of creative possibilities—not just for Halloween, because jumping spiders are amazing year-round—here’s what you need:

Yarn: At least a few dozen yards of fine/sock yarn. 

I really liked the way Cotton Fair from Premier Yarns worked for this. It was easier on the hands and hid the stuffing better than Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread. 

I had a number of unlabeled sparkle yarns as well as some Paton’s Metallic that looked interesting for parts of this pattern but they were not super easy to work with. If you would like a fuzzy spider, you’ll need a couple yards of eyelash or faux fur yarn. This is added later by working it in with whipstitches once the spider is assembled.  

This yarn was not kind for this project but this gem may be my Christmas tree topper.

Needles: U.S. size 2 (2.75mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). Five DPNs will make things easier but four is enough. 

This needle and yarn combination will result in a spider that is roughly 3.75 inches (9.5 cm) in length, but scale up or down as you’d like. Personally I may try a very tiny version after a long break from spider legs. I’ve knit at least 88 of them in the last week or so.  

Additional Supplies: Small amount of polyfill or ample yarn scraps for stuffing, a tapestry needle for assembly, straight pins, two or three pairs of safety eyes in variable sizes.

With regard to safety eyes, I like the look of six, since the smallest pair on most jumping spiders isn’t very visible. You can still create a convincing look with just four or even two eyes. I used 9mm for the largest center pair and subsequently smaller sizes (7mm, 5mm) from there. I source my eyes from etsy.com/shop/6060.   

Techniques and Abbreviations:

Knit-in-the-Round

Knit Straight

Cast On (CO)

Knit (K)
Purl (P)

Knit Front and Back (Kfb)
Knit Two Together (K2tog)

Draw-Through

Round (Rnd)

Pick Up (PU)

Short Row (Srt Row)

Wrap & Turn (W&T)

Total stitches are indicated within ( ) after increase and decrease rounds. Stitches to be repeated are indicated within [ ].

Head/Cephalothorax

CO 12 stitches.

Knit straight the following rows to create the top of the head.

Row 1: K all sts.

Row 2: P all sts.

Row 3: K1, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K1 (10 sts)

Row 4: P all sts.

Row 5: K1, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K1 (8 sts)

Row 6: P all sts.

Row 7: K all sts.

Row 8: P all sts. 

Row 9: K all sts.

Using DPNs, continue with yarn and PU 6 sts along the adjacent side, PU 10 sts along the front, PU 6 sts along remaining side. 

You should now have 30 sts on three or four DPNs. (It is easier to start with four and move on to three as the head is deceased.) 

If you would like a more colorful spider, this is a good place to change colors. 

K one rnd before starting the following short rows.

Srt Row 1:  K27, W&T 

Srt Row 2:  P16, W&T

Srt Row 3:  K15, W&T

Srt Row 4:  P14, W&T

Srt Row 5:  K13, W&T

Srt Row 6:  P12, W&T

Srt Row 7:  K to end, working wraps as you come to them.

Resume knitting in the round to close of the head of the spider.

Rnds 1 & 2:  K all sts

Rnd 3:  K12, [K2tog] twice, K6, [K2tog] twice, K4 (26 sts)

Rnd 4:  K9, [K2tog] 3 times, K4, [K2tog] 3 times, K1 (20 sts)

Rnd 5:  K9, [K2tog] 5 times, K1 (15 sts)

Add safety eyes at this point. Start with the two largest in the center, just below the first rnd of PU sts. then add subsequent eyes, from largest to smallest on opposite sides.

If you’re placing more than two eyes, overlapping the washers takes some extra care. This is easier with safety eyes that use thin metal lock washers rather than plastic. Take it slow and don’t fully snap them in until you’re happy. 

Rnd 6:  [K1, K2tog] 5 times (10 sts)

Rnd 7:  [K2tog] 5 times (5 sts)

Stuff the spider’s head. Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts to close up the bottom. Weave in the ends.

Abdomen

The abdomen of the spider is knit in the round. 

CO on 12 sts, distribute on 3 DPNs to work the following rnds. I suggest leaving a long tail, which can later be used to join the abdomen to the head.

Rnd 1:  [K1, Kfb] 6 times (18 sts)

Rnd 2:  K all sts

Rnd 3:  [K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1] 3 times (24 sts)

Rnds 4 - 7 :  K all sts

Rnd 8:  [K3, K2tog, K3] 3 times (21 sts)

Rnd 9:  [K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1] 3 times (15 sts)

Rnds 10 - 11: K all sts

Rnd 12:  [K2tog, K1, K2tog] 3 times (9 sts)

Rnd 13:  K all sts

Rnd 14:  [K2tog, K1] 3 times (6 sts)

Cut the yarn, draw through remaining sts to close, and weave in the end.

Jaws/Chelicerae (Make 2)

You may want to make these in a different color, particularly a bright color yarn, as these can be body parts can be brightly colored on some species of jumping spider. 

They are knit in the round. Again, you may want to leave a long tail so they can later be attached to the head. 

Co 9 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs to work the following rnds.

Rnds 1 - 4: K all sts

Rnd 5: K1, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K1 (7sts)

Rnd 6: [K1, K2tog] twice, K1 (5 sts)

Rnd 7: K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 sts)

Cut the yarn and draw through the remaining sts. Thread the end into the interior. It can then be tucked in to partly stuff the inside. 

The Legs

With all the legs, you’ll want to leave a long tail at the CO and at the end when you draw through. The CO tail can be used to attach the base of the leg to the spider, while the end tail can be used to create the joint in the center. This technique will be described in the assembly portion of the pattern. 

There are a total of eight legs, comprised of a front pair, back pair, and two pairs of short, center legs. All are knit in the round.

Front Legs (Make 2)

Co 9 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs.

Rnds 1 - 12:  K all sts

Rnd 13:  K2tog, K5, K2tog (7 sts)

Rnds 14 - 15: K all sts.

Rnd 16: K2tog, K3, K2tog (5 sts)

Rnd 17: K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Back Legs (Make 2)

Co 6 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs.

Rnds 1 - 12:  K all sts

Rnd 13: [K2tog] 3 times (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts

Short/Center Legs (Make 4)

Co 6 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs.

Rnds 1 - 8:  K all sts

Rnd 9: [K2tog] 3 times (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts

Assembly

It’s time to bring your new friend to life. Get yourself a nice big cup of coffee first. Straight pins will make this process easier. Pin pieces in place to ensure you’re happy with their position and to support them as you work. As with the safety eyes, take your time. 

These spiders will look like voodoo dolls before they look like spiders.

It’s much easier to make adjustments as you go rather than take things out and start over. 

Start by attaching the jaws to the face just below the eyes. They can be stuffed slightly using the closing tail or scrap yarn. 

If you wish to make any additions to the head, they are easier done before the abdomen is attached.

If you’re adding any fuzzy elements to the face or jaws, work the eyelash yarn between the rows and rounds using whipstitches and plucking the furry bits free. I’ll sometimes trim them so my spider is more fuzzy than hairy. 

Fuzzy or not so fuzzy...you decide!

Stuff the abdomen and attach it to the upper back of the head. Raising the abdomen slightly will leave more room for the legs, though you can leave it flat and just maneuver them as close to the center as possible. Don’t worry if your spider doesn’t rest flat at this point. The legs will help with stability.

You can leave your spider’s legs as they are, though this may give it a squished appearance. I prefer to add joints, particularly in the back and center pairs.

To add a joint to each leg, thread the closing tail up through to the center of the leg. Pinch or pin the leg so it bows in the center. Make a small stitch just below the bend to secure it in place. You can add a small knot there or thread the yarn though the opposite side and knot at the CO rnd before trimming and weaving in. You can then use the CO tail to attach each leg to the spider.

Bend those little spider "knees"!

Start with the larger front legs, attaching them to the head just behind the jaws. Again, use pins to make the process easier. You’ll want the tip of each leg to be somewhat level with the bottom of the spider so they appear to rest naturally. 

I suggesting adding legs symmetrically, starting with one side and moving to the opposite. It should be possible to fit three pairs on the sides of the head and the back pair just below or on the sides of the abdomen. 

You're so much work but I love you.

A gold star to you if get through this one. I hope it makes an enjoyable addition to your Halloween or daily decor. Slap it on a headband, sweater, hat, etc. Snuggle up with it during a horror movie or nature documentary. 

Enjoy and congratulate yourself on knitting so many damn legs.