Jumping Spider - Free Pattern

Okay, so nearly two years since I’ve updated but at least I’ve given you a full five days before Halloween to knit this jumping spider. 

And you might need all five of them; this spider is not a light project. 

As with the smaller Spooky Sparkly Spider pattern, all the pieces are fairly easy to knit, but there are a lot of them and then there’s the task of getting them all together.

If you’re up for something finicky that will give you a lot of creative possibilities—not just for Halloween, because jumping spiders are amazing year-round—here’s what you need:

Yarn: At least a few dozen yards of fine/sock yarn. 

I really liked the way Cotton Fair from Premier Yarns worked for this. It was easier on the hands and hid the stuffing better than Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread. 

I had a number of unlabeled sparkle yarns as well as some Paton’s Metallic that looked interesting for parts of this pattern but they were not super easy to work with. If you would like a fuzzy spider, you’ll need a couple yards of eyelash or faux fur yarn. This is added later by working it in with whipstitches once the spider is assembled.  

This yarn was not kind for this project but this gem may be my Christmas tree topper.

Needles: U.S. size 2 (2.75mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). Five DPNs will make things easier but four is enough. 

This needle and yarn combination will result in a spider that is roughly 3.75 inches (9.5 cm) in length, but scale up or down as you’d like. Personally I may try a very tiny version after a long break from spider legs. I’ve knit at least 88 of them in the last week or so.  

Additional Supplies: Small amount of polyfill or ample yarn scraps for stuffing, a tapestry needle for assembly, straight pins, two or three pairs of safety eyes in variable sizes.

With regard to safety eyes, I like the look of six, since the smallest pair on most jumping spiders isn’t very visible. You can still create a convincing look with just four or even two eyes. I used 9mm for the largest center pair and subsequently smaller sizes (7mm, 5mm) from there. I source my eyes from etsy.com/shop/6060.   

Techniques and Abbreviations:

Knit-in-the-Round

Knit Straight

Cast On (CO)

Knit (K)
Purl (P)

Knit Front and Back (Kfb)
Knit Two Together (K2tog)

Draw-Through

Round (Rnd)

Pick Up (PU)

Short Row (Srt Row)

Wrap & Turn (W&T)

Total stitches are indicated within ( ) after increase and decrease rounds. Stitches to be repeated are indicated within [ ].

Head/Cephalothorax

CO 12 stitches.

Knit straight the following rows to create the top of the head.

Row 1: K all sts.

Row 2: P all sts.

Row 3: K1, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K1 (10 sts)

Row 4: P all sts.

Row 5: K1, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K1 (8 sts)

Row 6: P all sts.

Row 7: K all sts.

Row 8: P all sts. 

Row 9: K all sts.

Using DPNs, continue with yarn and PU 6 sts along the adjacent side, PU 10 sts along the front, PU 6 sts along remaining side. 

You should now have 30 sts on three or four DPNs. (It is easier to start with four and move on to three as the head is deceased.) 

If you would like a more colorful spider, this is a good place to change colors. 

K one rnd before starting the following short rows.

Srt Row 1:  K27, W&T 

Srt Row 2:  P16, W&T

Srt Row 3:  K15, W&T

Srt Row 4:  P14, W&T

Srt Row 5:  K13, W&T

Srt Row 6:  P12, W&T

Srt Row 7:  K to end, working wraps as you come to them.

Resume knitting in the round to close of the head of the spider.

Rnds 1 & 2:  K all sts

Rnd 3:  K12, [K2tog] twice, K6, [K2tog] twice, K4 (26 sts)

Rnd 4:  K9, [K2tog] 3 times, K4, [K2tog] 3 times, K1 (20 sts)

Rnd 5:  K9, [K2tog] 5 times, K1 (15 sts)

Add safety eyes at this point. Start with the two largest in the center, just below the first rnd of PU sts. then add subsequent eyes, from largest to smallest on opposite sides.

If you’re placing more than two eyes, overlapping the washers takes some extra care. This is easier with safety eyes that use thin metal lock washers rather than plastic. Take it slow and don’t fully snap them in until you’re happy. 

Rnd 6:  [K1, K2tog] 5 times (10 sts)

Rnd 7:  [K2tog] 5 times (5 sts)

Stuff the spider’s head. Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts to close up the bottom. Weave in the ends.

Abdomen

The abdomen of the spider is knit in the round. 

CO on 12 sts, distribute on 3 DPNs to work the following rnds. I suggest leaving a long tail, which can later be used to join the abdomen to the head.

Rnd 1:  [K1, Kfb] 6 times (18 sts)

Rnd 2:  K all sts

Rnd 3:  [K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1] 3 times (24 sts)

Rnds 4 - 7 :  K all sts

Rnd 8:  [K3, K2tog, K3] 3 times (21 sts)

Rnd 9:  [K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1] 3 times (15 sts)

Rnds 10 - 11: K all sts

Rnd 12:  [K2tog, K1, K2tog] 3 times (9 sts)

Rnd 13:  K all sts

Rnd 14:  [K2tog, K1] 3 times (6 sts)

Cut the yarn, draw through remaining sts to close, and weave in the end.

Jaws/Chelicerae (Make 2)

You may want to make these in a different color, particularly a bright color yarn, as these can be body parts can be brightly colored on some species of jumping spider. 

They are knit in the round. Again, you may want to leave a long tail so they can later be attached to the head. 

Co 9 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs to work the following rnds.

Rnds 1 - 4: K all sts

Rnd 5: K1, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K1 (7sts)

Rnd 6: [K1, K2tog] twice, K1 (5 sts)

Rnd 7: K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 sts)

Cut the yarn and draw through the remaining sts. Thread the end into the interior. It can then be tucked in to partly stuff the inside. 

The Legs

With all the legs, you’ll want to leave a long tail at the CO and at the end when you draw through. The CO tail can be used to attach the base of the leg to the spider, while the end tail can be used to create the joint in the center. This technique will be described in the assembly portion of the pattern. 

There are a total of eight legs, comprised of a front pair, back pair, and two pairs of short, center legs. All are knit in the round.

Front Legs (Make 2)

Co 9 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs.

Rnds 1 - 12:  K all sts

Rnd 13:  K2tog, K5, K2tog (7 sts)

Rnds 14 - 15: K all sts.

Rnd 16: K2tog, K3, K2tog (5 sts)

Rnd 17: K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Back Legs (Make 2)

Co 6 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs.

Rnds 1 - 12:  K all sts

Rnd 13: [K2tog] 3 times (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts

Short/Center Legs (Make 4)

Co 6 sts and distribute on 3 DPNs.

Rnds 1 - 8:  K all sts

Rnd 9: [K2tog] 3 times (3 sts)

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts

Assembly

It’s time to bring your new friend to life. Get yourself a nice big cup of coffee first. Straight pins will make this process easier. Pin pieces in place to ensure you’re happy with their position and to support them as you work. As with the safety eyes, take your time. 

These spiders will look like voodoo dolls before they look like spiders.

It’s much easier to make adjustments as you go rather than take things out and start over. 

Start by attaching the jaws to the face just below the eyes. They can be stuffed slightly using the closing tail or scrap yarn. 

If you wish to make any additions to the head, they are easier done before the abdomen is attached.

If you’re adding any fuzzy elements to the face or jaws, work the eyelash yarn between the rows and rounds using whipstitches and plucking the furry bits free. I’ll sometimes trim them so my spider is more fuzzy than hairy. 

Fuzzy or not so fuzzy...you decide!

Stuff the abdomen and attach it to the upper back of the head. Raising the abdomen slightly will leave more room for the legs, though you can leave it flat and just maneuver them as close to the center as possible. Don’t worry if your spider doesn’t rest flat at this point. The legs will help with stability.

You can leave your spider’s legs as they are, though this may give it a squished appearance. I prefer to add joints, particularly in the back and center pairs.

To add a joint to each leg, thread the closing tail up through to the center of the leg. Pinch or pin the leg so it bows in the center. Make a small stitch just below the bend to secure it in place. You can add a small knot there or thread the yarn though the opposite side and knot at the CO rnd before trimming and weaving in. You can then use the CO tail to attach each leg to the spider.

Bend those little spider "knees"!

Start with the larger front legs, attaching them to the head just behind the jaws. Again, use pins to make the process easier. You’ll want the tip of each leg to be somewhat level with the bottom of the spider so they appear to rest naturally. 

I suggesting adding legs symmetrically, starting with one side and moving to the opposite. It should be possible to fit three pairs on the sides of the head and the back pair just below or on the sides of the abdomen. 

You're so much work but I love you.

A gold star to you if get through this one. I hope it makes an enjoyable addition to your Halloween or daily decor. Slap it on a headband, sweater, hat, etc. Snuggle up with it during a horror movie or nature documentary. 

Enjoy and congratulate yourself on knitting so many damn legs.

Sort Of Realistic Fox Scarf - Free Pattern

I was going to make this a shop exclusive pattern, but there are a couple reasons why I feel better giving it away. First, there are already so many takes on this concept. It's not unique, nor is it all that difficult to  figure out. That's how I came to make one. There are a lot patterns for fox scarves and stoles that are purposely cute and artificial in appearance, but I wanted a slightly more realistic one. I'd never want the real thing, not even a secondhand one. That's too icky for me. I won't even eat most of the animals that the vast majority of people have no problem eating; I couldn't drape a dead fox around my shoulders.

I admit...I still kind of like the look though.

So I have merged my love for vintage fashion and wildlife with a more realistic but cruelty free fox scarf.


That brings me to the second reason this is a free pattern. I cannot find a good yarn to recommend that hasn't been discontinued. You can still find eyelash/faux fur yarn needed for the body in most craft supply chains, but you'll need a boucle or mohair-like yarn for the face and ears. You'll also need that yarn to closely match the eyelash/fur yarn. That has been surprisingly tough. This bulky yarn trend--which, yes, I hate and am apparently the only one who does--has pushed all other novelty and textured yarns off the shelves. It's bulky, baby, and worsted, and that's all you can get with any sort of color variation--at least in my area. If you're going to make this scarf, I hope you have better luck than I when it comes to finding a reasonably priced boucle and a fur yarn that work together.


For the black scarf, I used black Fun Fur from Lion Brand with black TLC Amore from Red Heart. The golden scarf was made with champagne Fun Fur from Lion Brand and soft earth Divine from Patons.  I can't bring myself to sell a pattern when the yarns necessary to produce a similar result are so elusive. If you have some stashed or you're up for the challenge of finding substitutes, then I hope you'll enjoy making your own fox scarf with the help of the pattern below.

Okay one last note: I realize the irony of me moaning about bulky yarn saturation when Patons' Divine and Lion Brand's Fun Fur are both technically bulky yarns.

Fox Scarf

You will need:

Four double pointed needles (DPN) in U.S. size 6 (4mm)

Straight needles in U.S. size 8 (5 mm)

50 yards of boucle or mohair style yarn for the face and ears

370 yards of eyelash or faux fur yarn for the body and tail

Gauge: 16 sts for 13 rows = 4 inches in eyelash/faux fur yarn using size 8 needles.

You will also need polyfill stuffing for the head, safety eyes, a safety nose or floss to embroider one, a needle for assembly, tape measure, stitch counter, and round marker. I recommend using snaps so your scarf can then be closed and worn lower around the shoulders.  

Abbreviations and Techniques:

Knit-in-the-Round

Knit Straight

Cast On


Knit (K)

Purl (P)


Knit Front and Back (Kfb)

Knit Two Together (K2tog)

Purl Two Together (P2tog)

Make One Increase (M1)

Bind Off

Draw-Through

Round (Rnd)

Total stitches are indicated within ( ) after increase and decrease rounds. Stitches to be repeated are indicated within [ ].

   

The pattern starts with the tip of the fox’s nose. The head is knit in the round.

Head

Using boucile/mohair yarn, CO 6 sts on 3 DPNs, place marker and knit the following rounds:

Rnd 1. K1, [Kfb] three times (9 sts)

Rnd 2. Kfb, K7, Kfb (11 sts)

Rnd 3. K all sts

Rnd 4. Kfb, K9, Kfb (13 sts)

Rnd 5. K all sts

Rnd 6. Kfb, K11, Kfb (15 sts)

Rnd 7. K all sts

Rnd 8. Kfb, K13, Kfb (17 sts)

Rnd 9. K7, [Kfb] three times, K7 (20 sts)

Rnd 10. K7, Kfb, K1, [Kfb] twice, K1, Kfb, K7 (24 sts)

Rnd 11. K7, Kfb, K3, [Kfb] twice, K3 Kfb, K7 (28 sts)

Rnd 12. K7, [Kfb, K2] twice, [Kfb] twice,  [K2, Kfb] twice, K7 (34 sts)

Rnd 13. K7, Kfb, K8, [Kfb] twice, K8, Kfb, K7 (38 sts)

Rnd 14. K7, Kfb, K22, Kfb, K7 (40 sts)

Rnd 15. K all sts

Switch to eyelash/faux fur yarn.

P all sts for eight rounds.

Rnd 25. P 10, Slip the next 20 sts onto the next needle. Remove marker. Starting with the last st of the round, slip the remaining 10 sts onto the back of the first needle so that all sts are parallel on two DPNs.  

Add the safety nose if you're using one. Stuff the end of the fox’s nose and add safety eyes. Stuff the rest of the fox’s head firm.

Body

Using the straight needles, knit one st from the first DPN, then one st from the second. Continue in this fashion until all 40 sts are on one straight needle. This will also close up the fox’s head.

Work in garter st until the scarf is 46 inches long or desired length. End on a wrong side row.

Tail

Distribute 40 sts on three DPNs. Place marker and work in the round as follows:

Rnd 1. P all sts

Rnd 2. [P2tog] twenty times (20 sts)

Rnd 3. P all sts

Rnd 4. [P2tog] ten times (10 sts)

Rnds 5 – 7. P all sts

Rnd 8. [P1, M1] ten times (20 sts)

Rnd 9 -10. P all sts

Rnd 11. [P1, M1] twenty times (40 sts)

Rnds 12 – 40 P all sts

If you would like your fox to have an extra long tail, continue knitting rnds. until the desired length is reached, then work from rnd. 41 to end.

Rnd 41. [P2, P2tog] ten times (30 sts)

Rnds 42 -46. P all sts

Rnd 47. [P1, P2tog] ten times (20 sts)

Rnd 48. P all sts

Rnd 49. [P2tog] ten times (10 sts)

Rnds 50-52. P all sts

Rnd 53. [P2tog] five times (5 sts)

Draw the yarn through the remaining sts to close. Tail is not stuffed. 

Ears

Make two

Using straight needles, CO 12 sts and work the following rows:

Row 1. K all sts

Row 2. P all sts

Row 3. [K2tog, K3] twice, K2tog (9 sts)

Row 4. P all sts

Row 5. K2tog, K5, K2tog (7 sts)

Row 6. P2tog, P3, P2tog (5 sts)

Row 7. K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 sts)

Bind off. Fold the ear in half and stitch closed.

Finishing

Attach the ears to the top of the fox’s head. Use pins to help you determine an ideal position before sewing them in place. Attach snaps below the fox's chin and at the base of the tail if desired.