That may be why I’ve had a pigeon pattern slated for so many years.
Now that I’ve finally gotten around to finishing and publishing A Moonserpent Tale, this is probably the best time to realize that pattern.
I’d ask you to pardon the shameless book promotion but I’m filled shame, all the time, by nature of being me; I’m just not letting it stop me from leveraging whatever I’ve got—knitting blog or otherwise. You see, writing fiction is one thing, getting eyeballs on it is another humiliating, exhausting, teeth-gritting sort of thing.
Where was I?
Right, so why a pigeon pattern?
Well, in the story A Moonserpent Tale, there’s a character named Pidgie. He’s a passenger pigeon.
In reality, passenger pigeons were once the most abundant bird in North America. But, after Europeans showed up and became increasingly abundant themselves, things didn’t work out well for the lovely passenger pigeon, which are now extinct and have been for just over 100 years.
Fantasy stories allow you to spend time with any sort of creature you’d like, including boring, done-to-death crap like dragons and werewolves. In A Moonserpent Tale, I wanted to bring to life a beautiful, successful, seemingly inexhaustible creature that humans managed to take from over several billion to zero.
When I thought to make a knitting pattern as part of my ongoing celebration of the passenger pigeon, it wasn’t lost on me that most people are probably going to want to knit a pigeon of the familiar rock dove variety—you know, city pigeons.
So, that’s the latest pattern I have for you below.
But, let’s say you too want to join in my tireless yet quiet celebration of the passenger pigeon. That pattern is only slightly different and a little more finicky but just as available here.
And lastly, before I start with the specifics, any traction I can get on this thing is greatly appreciated.
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| In all seriousness, if you're looking for a rich, very human story that moves away from today's fantasy cliches while keeping darker folktale roots, please consider giving it a read. |
Yarn and Needles: You will need a minimum of four DPNs, yarn of your preferred weight in the following colors: grey, purple, green, black, orange or pink—a few dozen yards of each, and a small length of white.
Additional Supplies: You will also need stuffing and a needle for assembly and embroidery. Safety eyes are recommended but you can use beads, small buttons, or embroidery as an alternative. If you don't have a spare DPN, you'll need a stitch holder or spare yarn. A row marker may be helpful, but I just use the intersection of the needles to keep track.
Gauge does not matter for this one. Make your pigeon as pudgy or as puny as you prefer.
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| Just as an example, medium/worsted weight (4) yarn on size 2 (2.75 mm)
DPNs creates pigeon that's roughly 6 inches (15.24 cm) from beak to tail
and 4 inches (10.16 cm) from feet to head. 10 mm safety eyes are also used. |
Techniques and Abbreviations:
Notes: There are few short rows within the body and wing portions. Nothing complicated, but you’ll need to be familiar with the W&T meth. Remember to pick up the stitch-wraps as you come to them.
You can use the M1 method to increase, just make sure to sub [M1, K1] or [K1, M1] in lieu of [Kfb].
When casting-on and binding-off, leave enough of a tail to assist in assembly or to simply make weaving in easier.
Total stitches are indicated within ( ) after increase and decrease rounds/rows.
Stitches to be repeated are indicated within [ ] followed by the number of repeats.
The body of the pigeon starts with the beak and is worked in one piece through to the tail feathers.
The wings and feet are knit separately and attached.
Beak and Body
CO 2 sts in black and work as an I-cord:
1. K all
2. Kfb twice (4 sts)
3. K all
Attach grey yarn and without turning:
4. K1, [Kfb] twice, K1 (6sts)
Move these 6 sts onto three DPNs to start knitting in the round, which will begin the head.
Rnd 1. Kfb in each st (12 sts)
Rnd 2. K3, [Kfb] twice, K2, [Kfb] twice, K3 (16 sts)
Rnd 3. K4, [Kfb] twice, K4, [Kfb] twice, K4 (20 sts)
Rnd 4. K5, [Kfb] twice, K6, [Kfb] twice, K5 (24 sts)
Rnd 5. Kfb, K15, W&T, P8, W&T, K9, W&T, P10, W&T, K16, Kfb (26 sts)
Attach green yarn to knit the pigeon’s neck and breast.
The grey yarn can be cut.
Rnd 6. Kfb, K24, Kfb (28 sts)
Rnd 7. Kfb, K8, Ssk, K6, K2tog, K8, Kfb
Rnd 8. Kfb, K9, Ssk, K4, K2tog, K9, Kfb
Rnd 9. Kfb, K17, W&T, P8, W&T, K9, W&T, P10, W&T K18, Kfb (30 sts)
Rnd 10. Kfb, K10, Ssk, K4, K2tog, K10, Kfb
Rnd 11. K20, W&T, P10, W&T, K20
Attach purple yarn to knit the pigeon’s lower breast.
The green yarn can be cut.
Rnd 12. Kfb, K10, Kfb, K6, Kfb, K10, Kfb (34 sts)
Rnd 13. K12, Kfb, K8, Kfb, K12 (36 sts)
Rnd 14. K10, [Kfb] 3 times, K10, [Kfb] 3 times, K10 (42 sts)
Rnd 15. K12, [Kfb] 3 times, K12, [Kfb] 3 times, K12 (48 sts)
Rnd 16. K14, [Kfb] 3 times, K14, [Kfb] 3 times, K14 (54 sts)
Attach grey yarn to knit the remainder of the body.
The purple yarn can be cut.
Rnds 17 - 22. K all sts.
If you’re using safety eyes, now is a good time to secure them since the sts will begin to decrease, but the body will stay open until assembly if you prefer to place them later.
Rnd 23. K14, [Ssk] 3 times, K14, [K2tog] 3 times, K14 (48 sts)
Rnd 24. K12, [Ssk] 3 times, K12, [K2tog] 3 times, K12 (42 sts)
Rnd 25. K10, [Ssk] 3 times, K10, [K2tog] 3 times, K10 (36 sts)
Rnd 26. K8, [Ssk] 3 times, K8, [K2tog] 3 times, K8 (30 sts)
Rnd 27. K6, [Ssk] 3 times, K6, [K2tog] 3 times, K6 (24 sts)
Rnd 28. K6, turn without wrapping the next st, P12, turn without wrapping the next st, K6.
Put the 12 most recently worked sts on one DPN and the other 12 sts on a spare needle/holder.
The sts on the DPN will be used to create the lower portion of the tail feathers.
The tail is knit straight in two portions: top and bottom.
Starting with the bottom portion, on the same side of the belly, work the following rows in grey:
Row 1. K all sts.
Row 2. P all sts.
Row 3. K all sts.
Row 4. P all sts.
Row 5. K1, Ssk, K6, K2tog, K1 (10 sts)
Row 6. P all sts.
Row 7. K all sts.
Row 8. P all sts.
Row 9. K1, Ssk, K4, K2tog, K1 (8 sts)
Row 10. P all sts.
Row 11. K all sts.
Row 12. P all sts.
Row 13. K1, Ssk, K2, K2tog, K1 (6 sts)
Row 14. P all sts.
BO.
Place the sts from the holder on a DPN.
Attach black yarn from the P side.
Work 1 P row.
Next, work the above 14 rows to create the top portion of the tail.
This completes the knitting portion of the body. Stuffing and seaming is covered in the assembly portion.
Wings
The wings start by knitting two upper portions that are joined together. All portions of the wings are knit straight.
Wings - Upper Portions
CO 3 sts in grey, knit the following rows:
Row 1. Kfb, K1, Kfb (5 sts)
Row 2. P all sts.
Row 3. K1, Kfb, K1, Kfb, K1 (7 sts)
Row 4. P all sts.
Row 5. K1, Kfb, K3, Kfb, K1 (9 sts)
Row 6. P all sts.
Row 7. K1, Kfb, K5, Kfb, K1 (11 sts)
Row 8. P all sts.
Row 9. K1, Kfb, K7, Kfb, K1 (13 sts)
Row 10. P all sts.
Row 11. K1, Kfb, K9, Kfb, K1 (15 sts)
Row 12. P all sts
Row 13. K13, W&T, P11, W&T K10, W&T P9, W&T, K12
Row 14 P all sts
Place on holder or spare needle.
On a separate DPN, work the 14 rows above, also in grey, so there are two upper wing portions.
Joining the Wings
Row 1. K across 15 sts of one wing. At the end, CO 4 sts. Using the same yarn, K across 15 sts of next wing.
A total of 34 sts should now be on one needle.
Row 2. P1, Ssp, P28, P2tog, P1 (32 sts)
Row 3. K1, Ssk, K11, K2tog, Ssk, K11, K2tog, K1 (28 sts)
Switch to black yarn.
Row 4. P1, Ssp, P22, P2tog, P1 (26 sts)
Row 5. K1, Ssk, K8, K2tog, Ssk, K8, K2tog, K1 (22 sts)
Switch to grey yarn.
Row 6. P1, Ssp, P16, P2tog, P1 (20 sts)
Row 7. K1, Ssk, K5, K2tog, Ssk, K5, K2tog, K1 (16 sts)
Switch to black yarn.
Row 8. P all sts
Row 9. K1, Ssk, K10, K2tog, K1 (14 sts)
Switch to grey yarn.
Row 10. P all sts
Row 11. K5, K2tog, Ssk, K5 (12 sts)
Switch to black yarn.
Grey yarn can be cut.
Row 12. P all
Row 13. K all
Row 14. P all
Row 15. K4, K2tog, Ssk, K4 (10 sts)
Row 16. P all
Row 17. K3, K2tog, Ssk, K3 (8 sts)
Row 18. P all
Row 19. K all
Row 20. P all
Slip 4 sts on a new DPN and fold in half. Graph these 8 sts together to complete the end fold of the wings.
Feet
Make two
CO 2 sts in pink or orange yarn.
Knit as I-cord:
1-3: K
4. [Kfb] twice (4 sts)
Using knit cast-on method, CO 2 sts from the first st.
BO 3 sts and put the remaining st from the right needle back on the left needle.
Repeat this process twice more, creating a total of three toes.
Pull yarn through last sts to end.
Thread the ending tail back through the I-cord to tidy up the foot.
This yarn tail will also be useful in the assembly process.
Assembly
Stuffing and Seaming the Body
Stuff the head and body so that the pigeon is thoroughly stuffed and firm, but not so overstuffed that the sts are strained, especially at the neck. Using smaller portions of polyfil or fiber will help in “sculpting” the body.
Stop stuffing before the start of the tail feathers. Both tail feather “flaps” will rest flat and unstuffed.
Close the body by seaming together the starting rows of the top and bottom tail feather portions. Regardless of the color, try to seam the yarn between the sts rows so it’s not easily visible.
After the body is closed up, seam together the top and bottom portion of the tail feathers along the sides and end.
The tail from the beak’s CO can be woven back through. If you want to tighten up the shaping or make it a little studier, it's useful for this purpose.
The pigeon’s ceres—that’s the puffy white bit that sits on the upper portion of its beak—are embroidered on with a few layered stitches.
Attaching the Wings
Lay the wings over the back of the stuffed and seamed body—as if to cover the pigeon like a cape. The curve of the short rows should allow for a nice rounded fit on the sides. The wing tips should be more or less centered over the tail feathers.
To fix the wings in place, a few stitches along the wing’s CO rows and the sides of the pigeon’s breast should be sufficient. You can continue to stitch along the pigeon’s back, behind the neck, for added security.
Attaching the Feet
Attach the feet so that they sit just after the last of the purple rnds and at the start the grey.
Space them so they enable the pigeon to stand. This is best done at the widest point of the body. If they’re too high up on the breast or far back towards the tail feathers, your pigeon may have a tendency fall face-first—not unlike one of those novelty drinking birds.
To test its balance, I recommend using straight pins or stitching the feet in place without knotting them.
Once you get them in the right spot, you can knot them and weave in the ends.
Apart from a passenger pigeon version, this pattern can be used to make a variety of other birds in the Columbideae family. For example, using varried shades of brown and tan yarn can be used to make a mourning dove. Using mostly white, like in the image below, knits up a quick Barbary dove.
Enjoy and please buy my book.
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